Marilyn Monroe and Jane Russell | Gentlemen Prefer Blondes
Replica Jewelry for a Museum
Replica Jewelry Design for the Academy Museum “Gentlemen Prefer Blondes” Exhibit
Gentlemen Prefer Blondes is a 1953 American musical comedy film based on the 1949 stage musical of the same name. It was directed by Howard Hawks and stars Jane Russell and Marilyn Monroe, with Charles Coburn, Elliott Reid, Tommy Noonan, George Winslow, Taylor Holmes and Norma Varden in supporting roles.
Costume Design: William Travilla
This project was a special commision for us to recreate the jewelry worn by Monroe and Russell in the the opening dance sequence - "A Little Girl from Little Rock".
We must have watched this clip over a 100 times, Two Little Girls from Little Rock.
Research + Jewelry Design Development
It is not often I get to make two of everything for my clients - in this case the Academy Museum reached out to our studio to replicate the jewelry for these costumes.
The costumes were worn by Marilyn Monroe and Jane Russell in the opening dance number, A Little Girl from Little Rock from the film classic Gentlemen Prefer Blondes.
The costumes are unique in the fact that they are from the same privately owned costume collection. They were acquired at separate times and now they resided under one owner.
The Academy Museum believed these costumes were significant in themselves to warrant the recreation of the original jewelry. The Academy Museum commissioned us to replicate the jewelry for their opening exhibit.
We were supplied with several images from the movie to complete our research. And after countless hours of watching the film here is how we developed the designs.
Fabrication
We knew we had a tight budget and short time frame to complete the project so we immediately hit the internet to search for ready to wear jewelry components. We researched jewelry findings and gemstones that the studios could have had access to in the 1950’s. We selected Swarovski rhinestones and base metal settings to complete the job. We were lucky to find several components online that we could use in the replicas. What we didn’t find we made by hand, here are our notes. We knew we had to make:
Two Necklaces
Hip Brooch
Earrings
Wrist Wraps
Cuff Bracelets (added at the last minute)
The Jewelry
Both the Red Drop Necklace and the Triangle Link Necklace were almost impossible to see clearly in the film and the photographs that the Academy supplied. One could not easily see how the jewelry was made. But by judging how each of the necklaces moved while Monroe and Russell danced, we thought that they were two separate necklaces and decided to make them that way.
Triangle Link Necklace
For the Triangle Necklace, I could see that it had individual links on some type of collar or perhaps even a chain. I knew that considering our time and budget I would have to hand-fabricate these links since the design was unique. We could not we find the exact size and design element online. We had no time for carving an original triangle link, making a mold and then casting 58 links to make two necklaces. So each link was hand pierced from a sheet of nickel silver. We choose nickel silver as it will hold its color without tarnishing (we had no budget for Rhodium plating). Each link was set with 6 rhinestones and sparkled like madness - no one would ever notice that the backplate was not plated.
Red Drop Necklace
The Red Drop necklace was not as hard to make as I thought it would be. I was able to find the exact size navette drops and have them set in the same matching Siam Red gemstones. I felt very lucky to have found them. They “made” the necklace and had to be just the right size and shape to create that look. Next - how were the navettes connected? This piece was puzzling to us, because we could see the navettes move up and down on the body as they danced so it couldn’t be soldered to a collar but had to be on some kind of chain. I selected a foxtail chain, the same chain I used on the triangle necklace and threaded rhinestone rondelles to give it that added bling. As if the dresses didn’t have enough bling!
Girandole Earrings:
I knew from my history studies that the earrings could be styled after - Girandole Earrings - girandole (pronounced "jeer-an-dole") style of earring is characterized by three stones of any shape suspended at the bottom, with the centerpiece usually slightly lower than the other two. The rest of the earring can vary greatly, but traditionally contains a larger round stone at the top and a bow, knot, or another decorative element may attach the dangling trio of stones to the upper section. I think that almost matches these.
As for the earrings - I was able to find the perfect settings - ready made - just had to flip them upside down, solder a few elements in place and set the gemstones. BTW, the red gemstones were difficult to find - the color is Siam Red, another Swarovski element. These earrings were studio made and must have been created on site. It appears that they were assembled pretty much like we did in the studio, white gemstones with a trio of red round gems hanging form the earring. They look and perform just as the originals designs.
Hip Brooch: (like anyone needs one)
The most difficult piece of jewelry to recreate for this project was the hip brooch. As you can see in the images to the right, the actors wore at least two versions of the brooch.
You can see in the images above, the differences between the two brooches - one that was worn during the dance routine (simpler and less pointy) and a second more elaborate design for the regular scenes. We suspected that the original design was mostly fabric applique and not a hard heavy metal brooch which would have been too difficult to dance with. Not to mention it is sharp!
Next we asked the museum to supply us with the exact measurements from the costumes, it was hard to tell from the images just how large the brooch was.
With the design in mind we created the layout on computer, then applied the drawing to the sheet metal and hand cut the design in nickel silver. With the frame polished and completed we soldered the rhinestones in place and added the rhinestones dangles to complete the design. Once the hip brooch was finished magnets were used to attach the brooch to the costume.
Wrist Wraps
The wrist wrapps were really fun to make. Triple strands of rhinestone were wired to an aluminum frame work. We had to be careful that nothing would touch or damage the costumes so all the edges were soft and smooth. The aluminum frames were designed to hold the shape and float above the sleeves. It was important not to touch the costume.
The Cuff Bracelets
Image from Academy Museum of Motion Pictures - clipped from the film to show the two cuffs.
The day before the jewelry was to be delivery we decided to just go for it and make two cuffs. After all the work we completed for the replica jewelry - these costumes just needed more bling. We whipped them up in a few hours. Even though they didn’t match the original designs - we still loved loved making them. They were really pretty!
Should have made more…
We honed our skills in soldered rhinestones on this project. We discovered this amazing green foam board made just for electronics soldering. Why not use it for jewelry. The green foam was wonderful to use not only did it keep the gems cool but also provided the support to the curved shape of the center gem settings. Great product. If you need some email us we have 49 other sheets.
Finished pieces - Off to Hollywood!
With little time to spare we just took our own studio images. No time for a professional photographer. If you want to share this story please let me know before you copy anything from our blog.
Thanks! KLH
Academy Museum - Opening Night - For Me!
Taken by the Academy this image shows the costumes worn by Monroe and Russell with our custom costume jewelry, just before the glass window was installed.
The invitation!
