How to Make a Brooch
The finished replica of the Carole Lombard Star Sapphire Brooch
Fabrication
With our research completed, drawings approved and a fabrication plan in place - the next step was to create the glass star “gemstone”.
We knew we needed to begin the project with San Diego’s glass artist Kathleen Mitchell. It was a complicated process requiring multiple attempts to get the right color, shape and star effect. I wrote a separate post just to share that adventure.
To learn more about the specific details, click on the button to learn how the glass dome was created for our project.
Wax Carving
How did we carve the wax?
With our glass star and custom wax model completed, the next step was to have the model cast.
We decided to have the wax model cast in yellow bronze. Once the pieces were sanded and polished we were ready to start the preparations for soldering the elements together. It’s best to finish the casted elements before soldering them this insures that all the parts have the best polish.
Below you will see the following images showing various stages of assembling and polishing.
The glass star gem was a perfect fit for the bronze casting.
Once the soldering and polishing phases was completed we shipped it out to be plated by a local plating company. We decided to simulate the look of platinum and selected a rhodium polished finish. We agreed that most likely the original brooch was made in platinum, and since that material is very costly - plating was our best solution.
In a few weeks the brooch was returned to the studio and ready to be set with our gem collections. The original brooch was set with diamond baguettes and round brilliants. The round brilliants were set by Pave - paved in diamonds so to speak. We channel set the crystal baguettes after plating the brooch. For the round brilliants we selected our favorite Swarovski gemstones and set them each by hand with a small drop of glue.
Closeup view of the brooch while we were setting the stones.
The center star would be set next, but first we needed to finish creating the “star” sapphire. Behind the glass dome we made a matte finished metal plate to help secure the fit. It took several attempts using various materials and methods before we determined how to make the best star.
We tried engraving the star on the backplate, to painting the star effect behind the glass gem. It turned out the best method was to be a hand painted star on a piece of clear film and set between the back plate and the glass dome.
A hand painted star on a piece of clear film was set between the back plate and the glass dome.
View our short video demonstrating how the star looks in motion
The final design - our brooch
Our brooch was then hand delivered to Larry McQueen, the owner of The Collection of Motion Picture Costume Design on location at the Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences in Los Angeles.
